Beloved.
Toni Morrison’s classic Beloved, sees former slave Sethe
provide fractured memories that come rushing back after an unexpected reunion
with Paul D, whom she hadn’t seen for almost 20 years. We only need to read the
first chapter, to get a feel of the effect comfort food had on her. This
reunion is the cause for the re-ignition of memories that she’d had buried deep
for almost this time. The thing she chose to distract her from these memories,
was comfort food: making biscuits. Southern biscuits are a simple, traditional
food to make at home. This is especially true for black families, as these were
some of the very few ingredients available to them. “Soul food has its roots in
slavery, when African-Americans had to make do with whatever food was available
to them. For the next 100 years after the abolition of slavery, many
African-Americans continued to make use of cheaper ingredients.”
(Jefferies, ). This also helps explains
the reason Sethe was able to make the biscuits without any measuring equipment-
years of practice and repeating the exact recipe. She’s extremely delicate and
careful, when using her hands as utensils. Whilst making the biscuits she is
discussing getting her breast milk to her baby- something that she was
prevented from doing, and the thing that was the most important to her. This
was because it was the one thing she could provide her child that no other
could, therefore the prevention of that was detaching the connection between
the two. In her ‘Food Habits in a Southern Community’, Mary Douglas describes
the preparation of the food “Biscuits and rolls are baked […] When questioned
about why certain foods were prepared in certain ways, the study KKP’s would
respond “that’s just the way it is done,” “that’s the way my mother taught me”
or “that’s how my family likes it””(119). The distress of the unimaginable
situation of having a child taken away causes her and Paul D to have this
moment of intimacy. “And they took my milk!” (19). He grabs her breasts almost
as a way of comforting her, as the discussion about being whipped when pregnant
was not the forefront of her heightened emotions, it was the fact that she had
to try and hide her breasts leaking with milk. The biscuits symbolise a way of
Sethe finding comfort through emotional distress, baking was a natural way for
her to distract herself from the memories that were flooding back to her.

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